Mosaics
Lamp Construction
Overlay
Painting on Glass
Reinforcement
Tricks of The Trade
Mosaics
Glass Mosaic
Denise Titus asks…I’m trying to learn to do a "glass on glass" mosaic. I am using GS Silicone II Window and Door silicone sealant which is what I've seen recommended in several places. It seems like the sealant is not drying very clear and even though I am careful to "push" down the glass and get glue out on all sides, I still get a number of bubbles. Any advice that you have would be helpful?
GPQ’s Glass Talk with Mark & Dave…Toni, Silicone is a lot thicker than regular glue. I would try Weldbond.
Advice from Carolyn Wilson…Toni, I use Weldbond when doing glass on glass or glass on Plexiglas. It goes on white, dries clear, no bubbles and doesn't yellow. Great results and doesn't have an odor.
Reader answers questions about Tile and Grout Sealer
Advice fromBob Samson, Hanford, CA...To answer your questions. I'm not sure, but I use a tile and grout sealer on mine. Not sure what effect that would have over the years. I'm teaching student now, at an Art Center, how to make these glass stepping stones.
Sealer for Patio Stones
A reader asks… Can you tell me the name of a good sealer for stained glass patio stones? I need something that with protect the concrete from salt and the cold, but will not yellow or "haze" the glass over time.
Advice from a reader…I use Weldbond glue available at Home Depot. I do a 1:5 dilution with water and use it to seal the concrete and then to seal the finished glass mosaic. I also use the full strength Weldbond to adhere the glass pieces to the stone. The stones weather well although our temperatures in winter seldom go below 15-20 degrees F.
Spraying Stepping Stones to Finish
Advice from a reader…Gayle, I use a concrete sealant which is manufactured by McCloskey, a division of Valspar. It is marketed through hardware chains (like Lowe's) under various names. It is an acrylic polymer, and can be used on wood as well as concrete. I apply two coats with a foam brush; it states on the can that it may also be sprayed. Of course, you want to be sure your stone has cured for 28 days so it is completely dry. I apply 2 coats on all sides; it soaks into the concrete immediately and BEFORE IT DRIES ON THE GLASS. Take a damp rag and wipe all the residue off the glass. If you don't do this, it may dry with a haze (which can be removed with fine steel wool), but it's much quicker an easier to wipe it off the glass before it dries. This will not affect the concrete seal.
Stepping Stones
A reader asks… I am having trouble finding a finishing spray for my stepping stones. I was sold an acrylic spray and it flaked off the glass after a couple weeks. Of course not evenly so I had to take a razorblade and finish the job. No one seems to be able to give me the name of a product that works. Is it necessary to do this step in the first place?
Safety Answer
Advice from a reader…I e-mailed Thompson's directly regarding the use of their water sealer for my birdbath. Since they have not tested their products for this specific use, they recommended that I not use it.
Birdbath Safety
GPQ’s Glass Talk with Mark & Dave…Check the precautions on the Thompson's water seal container. You might check their web site and ask about wildlife safety.
Sealant
A reader asks… I’ve created a beautiful birdbath. Is it safe to use Thompson's Water Seal to preserve it or will this be harmful to the wildlife we'll attract? Any suggestions will be appreciated!
Help With Mosaic Books
GPQ’s Glass Talk with Mark & Dave…Linda, there are a ton of mosaic books available which show the direct method of mosaic. We've covered some of these projects in past issues. The hurricane lamps used one method. Look at your dealer or book store for mosaics. Many of these walk you through the entire process.
GPQ Reader Writes about Beach Glass
A reader asks… I'm going to make a water fountain out of a cement mold with beach glass enforced. Do you have any suggestions on a format, such as, how to get started, the do's and don'ts. I'm a novice on the matter, but not afraid to try. Please help Thanks Linda
Grout Sealant
A reader asks… When I made stepping stones, I had that problem as well. When I asked around a friend told me to use grout sealer.
Stepping Stones & Stained Glass
I make stepping stones out of stained glass and concrete. I use contact paper to stick the pieces of glass to. I would love to use clear glass and glitter, but don't know how to use it on the method I am using. What kind of glue do you use? What method do you use?
Stepping Stones
A reader asks… I am a stepping stone novice, what kind of glue works best to hold the glass. I’m just using Quickcrete behind that glass. Is that enough?<
Glitter
A reader asks… My friend and I are doing a project on medieval stained glass windows. We don't have to make a real stained glass window but we do have to make one out of paper. We are going to be using tissue paper and some other black paper and then place if over a light in our school. You had said something about glitter and how it caught everyone’s eye, and I was wondering if you had any ideas on how to make the glitter the same was you did in your stepping stones.
Advice from a reader…you can use cellophane paper; the craft stores have it in the wrapping paper section. You probably had an Easter basket wrapped in it when you were younger
New Ways to Use Mosaics
Advice from a reader…Using store bought stones and putting my design on them saves time when making gifts. Also, when using clear glass, I put ordinary glitter on top of the glue, then clear glass. When the glue dried, it was beautiful when the sun hits it and it glitters. It catches everyone’s eyes.
back to top
Lamp Construction
Billiard Table Lamp
A reader asks… Hi! I have been looking and looking for a pattern for a billiard table lamp to construct for my Dad for Christmas this year. Does anyone have a pattern that I could buy or have??? Please e-mail me . At Headwest1@yahoo.com Thanks
Nautilus Lamp Base
A reader asks… Hello Maureen James, we seek for a long time Graphiko bases for the nautilus . We would be very interested on a base, either brown or green patinaed. Please give us your information about price, shipping, and handling to Switzerland. Kind regards, Josy Bolliger
GPQ’s Glass Talk with Mark & Dave… The company that carried the lamp base is Graphiko and is no longer in business. You can try a internet search to find another company that may carry it. Presently I do not know of a company that carries the lamp base.
Advice from a reader…I don't know if you still seek a lamp base, sometime ago I bought three (3) of the Graphiko bases, I however only built one base. If you still need it, email me DetroitHistorichomes@msn.com
Josy Bolliget asks… Hello I saw you are able to sell an old Graphiko base for the Nautilus Lamp. I would be very interested.
GPQ’s Glass Talk with Mark & Dave… Josy, This is the email address of the person you need to contact about the lamp base.
DetroitHistorichomes@msn.com
Its Hard to Make a Homemade Mold
A reader asks… Hi there! I tries to make a Styrofoam mold at home, myself, seeing how high the prices are to buy ready-made fiberglass and Styrofoam molds. The thing was this; its got to be a special kind of Styrofoam that wont give off toxic fumes when heated. All of the regular plain Styrofoam at craft stores are very dangerous if heated. Even if you are tack-soldering your lamp together, you could be creating enough heat for danger. Your best bet would be to do what I am probably going to do: buy a cheaper Worden mold, and then you can change patterns later if you like.
GPQ’s Glass Talk with Mark & Dave…HL Worden has several to choose from. They are at wordensystem.com
Lamps and Proper Maintenance of Forms
GPQ’s Glass Talk with Mark & Dave…For Worden forms, Mark suggests you cut and cover with Magic Strips, then cover completely with Scotch Magic Tape. Next, transfer the design to the form. The life of the form depends on exposure to heat and solder. To preserve the life of your Styrofoam mold, he recommends that you use a quick bead with a minimum of flux to tack the shade together, then remove from the mold and do final beading off of the form. Fiberglass molds cost more but are nearly indestructible and can be used repeatedly. Pieces are held in place with artist's wax. A hole can be drilled in the top of the fiberglass mold to fit your lamp shade vise.
GPQ Reader Shares has Question About a Pattern
A reader asks… I am looking for a pattern for a light fixture to go over a pool table does anyone know where I can find one have been searching for months thanks
GPQ’s Glass Talk with Mark & Dave…HL Worden produce a catalog and advertise in GPQ. Check them out.
Question About Ceiling Fixtures
A reader asks… Please help. I had a lovely ceiling fixture for my kitchen that I bought commercially several years ago. Due to a mishap it was totally demolished. I can no longer find anything with its subtle geometric curves and pale colors, so I want to make one myself! I have done flat panels for my cupboards, but have never worked in the round. I would like the fixture to be about 10-12 inches round and about 4 to 6 inches deep. Artistic design is not a problem, but geometry is. It would help if I could look at some existing projects. The opening is up, not down like a lampshade. Thanks, Vicki
GPQ Reader Shares About Tacky Wax
Advice from a reader…I don't put the wax all over the mode. I just put a small ball of wax on the back of each piece of glass, that was stuff does not get on the waxed mold
GPQ’s Glass Talk with Mark & Dave…No, it isn't necessary to wax that recess where the rim goes. The recess should hold the rim in place until it is tack-soldered. The purpose of the Tacky Wax is to hold the glass on the form.
Tacky Wax
A reader asks… When waxing the mold, Do you put wax in the recess where the rim goes?
Wall Sconces
A reader asks… I also would like to know this. I would also be interested in knowing where to find patterns for them.
Ring Insertion
A reader asks… Can anyone tell me at what point do I solder the ring in place at the top of the table lamp? Do I tack solder the glass together first and take the shade off of the mold then insert the ring? The glass is foiled and in place on the mold with wax. It's the Hydranga pattern with the irregular bottom edge. I haven't done this in so long--I hate to ruin it. I guess I'm in for some refresher classes!! Thanks to anyone that can help.
GPQ’s Glass Talk with Mark & Dave…Solder the ring on at the top of the shade before you take the shade off of the mold. Do this as you tack solder the glass pieces together, and solder the ring to the top row of glass pieces.
Egg and Dart Beveled Glass Pieces
Chris Arendt reader asks… I wish to construct an edge border in beveled glass in the egg and dart design. Does anyone have any clues on the availability of pieces that will accomplish this? Sincerely, Chris Arendt
Help in Building Stained Glass Lamps
Advice from a reader…James Kearney For those of you building stained glass lamps, you can get a lot of guidance from the Association of Stained Glass Lamp Artists at www.asgla.com. Their 250 members worldwide provide solutions via the Talklist to problems encountered based on their experience. It is non-profit so the membership is a nominal $10.00 yearly. Check it out.
Kasuga Lamp Base - Miss Daisy
Yvonne asks… You had a pattern of the grape lamp in you 2002 /winter issue and I'm trying to locate a place, hopefully in Canada, that would carry this lamp base. The pattern called it a Kasuga base.
GPQ’s Glass Talk with Mark & Dave… This base is available from: http://www.tk-stainedglass.co.jp/design/
back to top
Overlay
Overlay
A reader asks… Hello, I love your work. I am new to stained glass, and I would like to learn so many things...now. But I know is going to take time. Do you use glue for the overlay? if yes, what kind?
Re: Overlay
GPQ’s Glass Talk with Mark & Dave… Thank you for compliment. We've started a new forum to discuss all types of overlay if you wish to join in. But to answer your question, ideally, you want overlay attached to design lines for the most permanent results. However, sometimes there are exceptions that prevent this from being possible like in such cases as adding an eye or detail in the middle of a piece of glass. We've used silicone with mixed results. It is likely to fall off over time. We suggest using JB Weld's Mini Clear Epoxy. It sets up in five minutes and is permanent. I would suggest cleaning the adhesive off of the foil or use sheet copper without adhesive, if you use epoxy or silicone.
Re: Overlay
A reader asks… I am new to stained glass. Where can I find info about doing some overlays?
Wire Overlay
A reader asks… How do you accomplish it on a stained glass piece?
GPQ’s Glass Talk with Mark & Dave… If you want to see a ton of projects that use Wire Overlay, click on Shopping Cart and select Project in Glass Patterns Quarterly magazine, then type "wire overlay" in the keyword area.
Many of her projects use wire overlay in creative and unusual ways. Her new pattern book, "The Illustrated Word in Stained Glass" features forty-three full-color project ideas built around unique and uplifting words. Many use wire overlay to create detail in stained glass.
GPQ’s Glass Talk with Mark & Dave… A pre-tinned wire is first shaped and then placed over the glass and soldered into place at the design lines. The wire is then patinaed with the rest of the panel and the results fool the eye to look as though you cut many more pieces of glass actually were cut. Or sometimes it just add detail that you couldn't achieve with cutting.
Some recent good examples of wire overlay are Karen Stephenson's Perfectly Waiting
http://www.glass-source.com/shop/popup.cgi?shopCart_id=1430&cat1_2=152
Complete how-to instructions and photographs are in every magazine.
Displaying the Back of an Overlay
A reader asks… I LOVE Robert Oddy's work and techniques. One aspect I struggle with though is how the back of the work will look. While the front will be brilliant the back will show the plates, etching and backside paints. Does anyone have some insight on this design challenge? I would love to use his techniques for some window panels I am designing but this issue holds me back. Thanks!!
GPQ’s Glass Talk with Mark & Dave… A good question! Whenever you apply a process to one side of the glass the view from the back will be different from the view from the front. This is true of ancient church windows where features painted on the glass are indistinct when the window is viewed from outside, and the difference is even more marked in windows by Tiffany and others at the turn of the last century, because they often used several layers of glass. The back side of a typical Tiffany window might be
described as a mess! It is not just that you can see the plates, paint, etc. on the
back - the whole impact of the window is lost, or at least different. When we use
plating, painting, etching, overlays, fusing and so on, the choice of which side of a
piece of glass to work on is important and must be determined by the effect that we
want to produce, and that effect is only apparent from "correct" side. If you (or your
client) want a panel that looks the same from both sides, you will have to make it
flat, use only glass that is the same viewed from both sides, and avoid plating,
painting, overlays, etc. Obviously, this will limit the artistic effects that can be achieved.
Beware of Cat
A reader asks… Mark Waterbury fabricated this pattern. I need help with the stripes which have pointed areas requiring overlay. Could I cut these overlays for each piece of glass, apply these, then wrap the glass with copper tape and solder these design lines instead of soldering the design lines first and then applying the overlay as the instructions state?
GPQ’s Glass Talk with Mark & Dave… I recommend pre-soldering overlay before attaching to panel.
The Viceroy
A reader asks… This question is directed to Mark Waterbury from a reader: I am working on the Viceroy.
With my X-acto knife no.1, I have been very unsuccessful in cutting the details for the wings on the copper sheet foil. The cuts are ragged and give a terrible appearance. Could you advise me what I am doing wrong and how I can correct it? This is my first try at cutting a copper foil sheet.
GPQ’s Glass Talk with Mark & Dave…Your X-acto knife is the right tool to use. Use a new sharp blade cut over a scrap board. Are you using 1.5mil copper sheet foil? Test one of your ragged edge cuts of sheet foil on a scrap piece of glass. After it is soldered and patinaed my guess is the ragged edge will not be noticeable.
back to top
Painting on Glass
Suggestion from Reader
Advice from a reader…I have one book The Glass Giraffe Volume 11by Sherry C. Nelson. I can not find any more books with all kinds of pictures to paint. I paint with oils of glass and love it. Could you put me in the right direction for any books with Landscape, Garden or Sea pictures etc? The book I have gives you the colors to work with.
Glass Painting Question from Reader
A reader asks… Hi everyone, I'm a former professional crafter- specialty is florals and basket applique and some glass etching. I'm looking for professionals in the stained glass profession who would like to teach at their home or be willing to travel to a student's house. I"m only looking for North Carolina residents. You will be provided an on-going data base, make your own class schedule and set your own fees. Contact me for an immediate consideration; Carol Strang at Creative Network. Happy crafting.
Glass Painting Question from Reader
A reader asks… What are the different ways of glass painting and show me how do you do them?
Re: Glass Painting Question from Reader
GPQ’s Glass Talk with Mark & Dave…Here are some links to information about glass painting.
http://www.profitableglass.com/profiles/studio/2005/spring.htm
http://www.glass-source.com/shop/popup.cgi?shopCart_id=588&cat1_2=152
http://www.glass-source.com/shop/popup.cgi?shopCart_id=540&cat1_2=152
http://www.glass-source.com/shop/popup.cgi?shopCart_id=1648
http://www.glass-source.com/shop/popup.cgi?shopCart_id=50
Satellite Unique Paints
Bill asks… I have no luck with these paints. I paint on float glass and fire to 1500 degrees. It looks awful. Does anyone have any info?
Re: Satellite Unique Paints
Advice from a reader… I live in Ecuador and Satellite Unique paints for glass is all we have. I fire small parts for accessories on float glass, in my kiln at 1700 and they come out just fine. Try this website www.crestmolds.com
Unique Glass Color Question
I saw your beautiful Poinsettia Plate in the Glass Patterns Quarterly issue. I just think it is so beautiful and it also looks like fun!I have tried to look for the Unique Original Glass Colors but nobody carries them where I live. I live in San Bernardino, CA. Do you know where I can purchase them? I'm just starting to do some stained glass windows and I subscribed to the GPQ and saw your plate. I said I would love to learn that, which means I will have to purchase a kiln.
Question from Reader - Glass Painting
A reader asks… does any one know where to buy glass paint that doesn’t need baking. This would be used for drinking glasses, vases etc.
Advice from a reader… I usually use the paint they use for airplane models. It is enamel paint and seems to hold up pretty well. I clean my project first and then when I am all done, I use the enamel paint. There is paint you can use on glass that they sell in SG stores but I seem to have better luck with the enamel paint.
Question from Reader - Glass Painting
A reader asks… I have just completed the Rubber Ducky pattern from the spring 2001 issue. The pattern called for paint. I am not sure what kind of paint to use on glass. Most of the paints I have seen require baking. I have already soldered all of the pieces, is it safe to bake lead in my kitchen oven? Are there any paints that do not require baking?
Advice fromMargot Clark… I have a ton of plate designs on my website www.margotclark.com under the Shopping icon then click on Packets-Fired Glass. I adore plates! You asked how far a jar of Glass Color will go? Seems like forever! I use a lot of Brite White, Eggplant, Rosewood, Dark Green, Apple Green, and Leaf Green so I do have to replace them now and then. One of the best features of this product is that even if it dries up in the jar you can reconstitute it with a bit of water! I have had some of my colors since 1995! Did I tell you that I did a set of my Geranium Plates for my kitchen and I hang two of them as decoration and pull them down to use if I have more than four guests. You will love this technique!
Glass Painting Question from Reader
A reader asks… My first choice regarding the plate patterns was the Poinsettia Plate featured in Fall 2002. I can't recall seeing the Autumn Leaves pattern. I will go back through my issues. I might have thought it was a real stained glass project and not actually read the article. I am sure I would like to tackle this one too. Are there a series of these plates? I can just see each of them hanging in my windows with the light shining through and the colors bouncing off the wall. Gorgeous vision! It is really rather ironic - I ordered the GPQ in the beginning, just for some of the Christmas patterns to paint on various projects) ornaments, stepping stones) and also believe it or not some of my sewing projects) for Christmas gifts. (I do tell everyone, if asked, where and what magazine the patterns came from). Well, your Poinsettia Plate popped up and really caught my attention. I thought it was actually "real" stained glass and was grieving because I couldn't make it and then I read the article completely and discovered - that it was reverse glass painting. I cannot tell you how excited I was. I want you to know that you have created a monster. I am hooked on the reverse glass painting method. I love the concept. I have always wanted to do "real" stained glass creating, but, because I am now on Coumadin and am not supposed to get cut, I can't do glass cutting. I do have a question. How far 1 oz of color will go on the Poinsettia Plate? The end result is that I want to order enough the first time to do 6 hanging projects first. If they turn out like I want them (a perfectionist), I want to do myself a set of dishes for the holidays at a later date and also, if there is a series of flower plates, I would like to do a set of these. If not, after I learn the technique, I have a detailed quilting book of wildflower appliqués that would work great for patterns for the flower plates. I prefer to use your pattern and in-depth instructions though - that is if there is going to be a series. I do oils landscapes) and acrylics (ceramics), (adore painting) so I a am sure that this is something that I can substitute for the actual stained glass procedures.
Glass Painting
Advice from a reader… Since you can't bake the paint onto the shower doors the best paint for you to use is marine paints.
Question from Reader - Glass Painting
A reader asks… Hello, I am very new to this, but I want to spiff up an old set of double shower doors with stained glass paints. I have an apple theme in my bathroom and thus, would like to paint an apple orchard landscape on these doors. Can anyone point me in the right direction towards doing this? I have a painting I would like to copy onto these doors in stained glass style...but I am not sure how to go about doing this. If anyone knows of a good orchard scene pattern already available I would be interested in hearing about that as well. Thanks!
Advice from Margot Clark…Thank you so much for the very kind words. They are much appreciated. I do enjoy doing the fired glass technique and hope you do, too. GPQ did a fantastic job of presenting that piece and technique. I was very pleased with the article. I use an old ceramic kiln (bought it new in 1985) to fire my glass so you might want to check on a used kiln instead of a brand new one. Mine is a Paragon but there are plenty of great brands out there. You could also check with a stained glass studio in your area to see if they sell them. Unique sells kilns also and I am sending a copy of this e-mail to them so when you ask for info on purchasing color they can send you kiln info, also. You can email Betty MacPhearson at bettm@sydcom.net for the info on glass colors or call her at 318-697-2611. If there is no supplier in your area, they will sell to you direct. She is aware of the article so will know what you are talking about. If you have any questions as you work on your fired glass, just let me know.
Suggestion from Reader
Advice from a reader… I usually get the holes cut for me at a glass shop and then start painting. I’m not sure what you can do at home. I've framed a few of my glass paintings, not sure if anyone else does it. It seems like its very popular for windows but I liked it as a normal, framed painting.
Glass Framing
Advice from a reader… Laura, check out www.creativepub.com or your public library for a book by Caroline Green titled "Painting Glass". I found lots of good tips and ideas in her book. Did you ever try framing glass sun catchers with wooden embroidery hoops? They come in a variety of sizes. p.s. my house is full of my glass "art" too!
Painted Glass Question from Laura
A reader asks… I have been painting glass for months now (they're all over the house) and I need to find a way to hang them. Sometimes while using a glass cutting bit to make a small hole the glass breaks. Should I put oil on the bit before drilling? Can I use copper foil, lead, or came to go around the edges of glass and hang it up by the frame somehow? Glass experts, help me!! Should I be sealing these works of art with something? I am looking forward to your advice, thank you. Laura
Question from Reader - When Applied not Sticking to Glass
Advice from a reader… I do fusing and slumping and I use Crest satellite unique paint to make plates to decorate the paint works well but I have trouble making it adhere to the glass in the beginning. I clean the glass with denatured alcoholic, wash with soap and water. Still no good. Do you have any suggestions?
A reader asks… I love your designer's work. I have never painted on glass before but, I have found a great pattern in my subscription to GPQ and would like to try it. Where can I locate the Unique Fired Glass Colors and what kind of kiln do you use? Can this type of project be heated in the oven? Could you tell me where I can locate your books - "Stroke Work With Flowers Step-by-Step and "Flowers on Glass"
Advice from Margot Clark… Hello, Brenda, Thank you for the very kind words about my work. They are much appreciated. Glad you liked the project in GPQ. Was it the Autumn Leaves Plate or the Poinsettia Plate? In an previous issue of GPQ I had a Mum Plate that also used Unique Glass Colors. No, these colors have to be fired in a kiln. Unique does have a line of non-fired glass colors that do bake in the oven so look on their website for that. My book, "Strokework Flowers - Step by Step" is available on my website www.margotclark.com Click on shopping and then click on books. My other book Flowers on Glass is out of print and I have no copies. You might try www.artistclub.com and type in my name in the search area. If they have any copies left it will come up on your screen. Enjoy working with Unique colors - you will love them!
back to top
Reinforcement
36 Wood Frame Circle
A reader asks… I have a large landscape panel I am making. What will support the panel in this size frame? This panel will be hung in a second story window from chain. Clips perhaps?
GPQ’s Glass Talk with Mark & Dave…Whatever is used clips, hooks, chain or wire. Make sure they are rated to hold the weight of your panel. www.glasspatterns.com
Hanging Window Panel
Advice from Dale, a reader…Unfortunately you did not indicate any projection to the size that you intend to build as well as the potential for hinge lines created within the panel, particularly with the border pieces. So.... From your description it sounds like this panel will hang in a window and is not actually installed. If that is the case you can probably get by with little or no reinforcement since you will most likely be framing it.
Where you may wish you had built in some reinforcement will be in handling the panel during construction.
Question About Reinforcement
A reader asks… I am working on a window panel in copper foil. All of the pieces are larger and has some bevels around the outer edge. At what size do you need to be concerned about reinforcing panels?
Suggestion from Reader
Advice from Hank, a reader…It is my understanding that any project that is over size it should be reinforced every 12-16 inches with either rebar or copper wire.
Re-Inforce Copper Foil Window
Advice from Barbara, a reader…I am from the OLD stained glass school. Years ago in the 70's the rule of thumb was to reinforce every 18 inches, now I am hearing 24 inches from most everyone I know who does glass. My windows are in perfect condition, stick with the 18 inch rule.
Advice from Bob G, a reader…There is a reinforcing copper strip product that can be placed in key joint lines within the pattern then soldered over. It is totally invisible. I've also used 12 gauge copper wire, but that sits on the rear surface of the foiled glass then soldered over when the foil line is soldered. This is more visible than the reinforcing strip, but if your soldering skills are good it will look ok. Be sure to locate the wire on a solder line that you think is critical to the strength of the panel. The wire can be bent to follow a line completely across the panel both vertically and horizontally. I think that will provide the structural support needed for a window of this size.
Advice from a reader…Have you ever used strong line? It is a thin piece of heavy copper line (about the same size of 3/16 foil but you place it between your foiled pieces from top to bottom or side to side. It comes in 25Ft rolls. mjm
Window Panel
A reader asks… Hi, I am in the process of making a wildflower stained glass window for my bathroom. It measures 43" tall by 31" wide. I want to copper foil the whole thing since many of the pieces are very small. My question is how can I make my window strong enough with just foiling or what do you suggest I try.
Advice from Laura, a reader…I generally use reinforcement for anything about 4+ square feet, and generally more reinforcement where a panel is taller than it is wide. So, for example, a 4' tall x 1' wide panel would need much more reinforcement than a 1' tall x 4' wide panel. It's a gravity thing - Taller panels have more weight pulling from top to bottom. I find in-line reinforcement much easier to use, and steel coated copper is better to use that just copper. I don't have much skill/luck with using external re-bar. Does anyone have any suggestions as to how to secure the re-bar to a panel (not to mention how to bend the darned stuff), and how does it really work? Somehow it simply makes more sense to me to have the reinforcement be internal. But maybe that's not the best route to take. Any info on that topic?
Reinforcement
Advice from a reader…I have used two techniques: insert a flat 1/4" wide 1/32" thick brass reinforcement strip between longest stretch of glass, preferably a section that will reach from top to bottom or side-to-side. The strip comes in rolls and can be snipped to length. The strip can also be shaped as needed. However, you have to take this into account when cutting the glass. With lead pieces, the strip can be inserted with the lead channel prior to inserting the glass.
A second method is to use rebar outside the glass, but this is best done when you have a section of the panel which runs entire length. The rebar is flat, about 1/8" thick and 3/8" wide.
Reinforcement Suggestion from Colleen
Advice from Colleen, a reader…Elaine - I made a ceiling light box for my kitchen with four panels approximately 22” x 28" - the design was wheat/grapes. I put wire along the main seams at the back of the project, and thought this would suffice; however now I notice some sagging. Reinforce, reinforce, reinforce!!!
Advice from a reader…Are you going to use foil or lead for the panel? I would want to make sure that the panel is reinforced in any case, especially if using foil, as the panel will sag over time. If you could put a plain sheet of glass or Plexiglas under the panel for support and protection, you may be alright without reinforcements. Sometimes rods are placed against the back side of the panel and then wires are soldered to the soldered lead lines of the panel and tied to the rods. It depends upon the design.
Reinforcement
A reader asks… I am also interested in this question. I am planning to do a 4ft by 2ft panel to cover an overhead fluorescent light in my kitchen. Any suggestions?
When to Reinforce and With What Material
A reader asks……this seems to be a very cloudy subject. I am making 2 projects one in copper foil measuring 2 feet x 2 feet do I need to use steel reinforcement {copper coated steel strip} to give added strength? the next project measures 4 feet wide by 2 feet tall made with lead came throughout do I need reinforcement throughout? and if so what type? I appreciate any help I can get. Thank-you
Question About Wissmach Doves #31
A reader asks… Mark, When you designed this design did you design with the Wissmach glass in mind ? I talked with you earlier today and of course have more questions. The design looks very strong. Is there a need for reinforcement? If you were to use transparent glass on this pattern what glass would you use. I know this is personnal, but I still would value your thoughts. Thanks! Peace, Erin Ward
Reinforcement and Glass Use
GPQ’s Glass Talk with Mark & Dave…Yes, as the window was commissioned by the Paul Wissmach Glass Company for a trade show window and subsequent ad, we used all Wissmach Glass. I use Strongline in the window and ran it vertically and diagonally and it is a very strong window.
In my opinion the design would not lend itself to cathedral glass. When I think of flowers, birds, and leaves, I think of opalescent glass for a realistic depiction of nature.
You could try semi-opaque or wispy cathedral glass as well.
Reinforcing Large Panels
A reader asks… Hi Mark, I'm repairing a large panel that is comprised of 3 sections that are stacked upon each other for our church. Top -- 30" x 5' width; Mid -- 30" x 5' width; bottom -- 36" x 5'. The panel had been exposed to the weather, but will no longer be after repair & reinstallation. The top & middle sections were bowed in and many pieces of glass had broken loose & were hanging loose from the copper foil.
The sections were framed in with by a wood frame. They were mounted together by means of lead H came. A piece of steel rebar was attached to the exterior by means of a wire looped and soldered between panels 1 & 2 and 2 & 3. However, these had broken loose pulling much of the solder & foil off.
My goal is to prevent this happening in the future. What would you suggest for reinforcement? Some of the pieces of the sky -- rounded pieces -- were falling loose. I planned on reinforcing using copper restrip. What do you suggest? Appreciate your advice.
GPQ’s Glass Talk with Mark & Dave…Are you planning to rebuild the windows in lead or copper foil? Whether you use foil or lead, I would suggest using Re-Strip.
Re-strip is a strip - like a ribbon 5/32" wide - made from copper or brass. It is used to reinforce stained glass projects made with lead or copper foil. Re-strip is sold in two sizes, a 25-foot roll or a 100-foot roll.
The fact that you are taking the windows away from the elements and protecting them from future harm will make them last considerably longer. When you think of reinforcement, try to think vertically and all the way to the outside edges connecting to the zinc U-channel surrounding the panels.
Question about Reinforcement
Mark, I recently visited Wissmach and saw two of the windows you did for them. (The dove window and the rose plated window.) I didn't see any external reinforcement on them. Did you use any internal reinforcement? What rules of thumb do you use when reinforcing indoor and exterior panels/windows? Is rebar always run horizontally? Thanks, Janie
Wissmach Glass Windows
GPQ’s Glass Talk with Mark & Dave…Janie, Morton's strong line can be used for internal reinforcement in copper foil windows. Horizontally place rebar would be the recommended reinforcement for large lead constructed windows.
back to top
Tricks of The Trade
Pattern Tracing
A reader asks… I am doing a large panel. I had it enlarged for my project, but now I want to know if there is an easy way to trace it to oak tag to make a pattern that I can cut out. The panel will be 17"X23". Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks, Betty
GPQ’s Glass Talk with Mark & Dave…I suggest carbon paper. Or take it to Mailbox etc. or Kinkos
Stringers
A reader, Betsy Guthrie asks… I want to tack fuse 1/4 inch deep of stringers together in a square and slump over floral former to make small bowl. Can anyone give me suggestions as to temp for firing schedule. I don't want the stringers to melt too much. Thanks.
Tack Fusing
A reader asks… I saw a plate made with dicro sticks that was tack fused with open weave look. Can anyone give me an idea what kind of firing schedule to use. Since the fire sticks are so small I am afraid that they will melt not just tack fuse.
Patina on Zinc
A reader asks… I am having terrible trouble getting patina on my zinc! I have used steel wool on it, Simi chrome-polished it - the patina took better on the polished zinc but when I go to wash it, it pretty well comes off! Help!
GPQ’s Glass Talk with Mark & Dave…Use 0000 steel wool to clean zinc. If you tried this already try using a flux remover or vinegar and water. Not soapy water it leaves a film. Don't polish the zinc before you use the patina. Make sure the zinc is dry before you apply the patina. Try applying the patina with a rag in one direction. Don't scrub it. Make sure you are using patina for zinc not solder.
Mosaic Nippers
Advice from a reader… These are NOT just for Mosaic's. I use them for almost all those small "bits" I used to use the grozier's for. I find that there is less breakage occurring where I don’t want it to at those silly little areas where you've not left enough to break, but too much to want to grind. They’re also great to use to make holly leaves with! A Glass Bash Shelton, WA 98584 www.aglassbash.com
Backlighting a Framed Panel
A reader asks… I would like some suggestions on how best to put a light behind a framed panel that is hung on the wall. Sandra I. Busher
back to top
|
